Up to the Monolith We Go!

Aside from my love for running, another outdoor activity that I am fond of (or trying to be fond of) is mountain hiking. I guess it started during my Scouting days back in high school where we used to trek Mount Makiling to the Jamboree site. Maybe something's in the air when you trudge along a rocky path with the sky above blotted out by the canopies of great trees. My community immersion during my senior year in college intensified my love for hiking when my groupmates and I were assigned to Barangay Hugom in San Juan, Batangas - home to its resident land mass, Mount Daguldol. As if to entice me more, one of the BHWs in Hugom resides in Sitio Catmon - one of the seven sitios of the barangay - which is located near the Campsite 2 of the said mountain. So it did not come to me as a surprise that now that I have the time and money, more mountain peaks call me. And one of these peaks is the great Pico de Loro of Mount Palay-Palay.

Pico de Loro is a singular structure known as the Parrot's Beak (or Monolith to some and to most Space Odyssey fans ;)) as it rises solidly beside the summit of Mount Palay-Palay, the latter standing at around 664 meters above sea level (MASL). It is also known to be one of the popular dayhike destinations for newbie hikers (like me!) who can't spare more than a day away from Manila. Located at the border of Ternate, Cavite and Nasugbu, Batangas, Pico de Loro surely enchants the outdoors-y in you to climb its summit and challenges you more to conquer its (parrot's) beak.

Just imagine a parrot, okay?
(c) allen3ya.blogspot.com

Since it's going to be a dayhike for me and my friends, DJ and Clemenz, we opted to stay in the latter's house so we can be in the bus terminal early in the morning. Let's start from Buendia where you can ride a bus bound to Coastal Road for 20 pesos. Alight at Coastal Road near the overpass where you can ride a bus with the signs 'Naic' and 'Ternate' for 90 pesos. Tell the conductor to drop you off at Ternate bus terminal. Sleep, you may need it. Scratch that. You NEED it. You can grab a quick snack at some of the stores in front of the bus terminal in Ternate. There's an especially kind store owner who would let hikers use their bathroom to do a quick pee before they continue with their journey. Ride a tricycle for 75 pesos and tell the driver to drop you off at the DENR jump-off point or simply 'aakyat po ng Pico de Loro'. They would know that already and drop you in the right place. Register in the DENR logbook and pay the registration fee of 25 pesos. There's another registration site a little ways into the trail where you have to pay 20 pesos. Now you can start the trek!

BUT WAIT! You forgot one thing. The very thing our group decided not to do which led to a very unforgettable experience on our way down from the summit: HIRE A GUIDE! I can never stress this enough but please DO GET A GUIDE, especially if you're a newbie hiker or unfamiliar to the trail. Yes, the trail is well marked with arrows and markers but it's better to cash out than to get lost (which we almost did). 

From the DENR registration area, you walk a few hundred meters of concrete road to the real jump-off point (see happy faces at the jump-off point below). From here, the trek is quite easy. Better bring the essentials like arm covers and gloves to brush away branches and a thumbstick is quite a help especially if you're having problems with your balance. 

The jump-off point is just a few minutes walk along the Ternate-Nasugbu highway and a marker that says "To Pico de Loro" will tell you it's the  right trail. Oh, look at those happy rested faces.
(c) Ate Fellow Hiker using DJ's camera

Le Bamboo Archway. Pardon the pose.
(c) Agullana

Being the enthusiastic newbies that we were, we set off at a fast pace, bypassing other hikers along the trail. However, we decided to stick to one group of experienced hikers since we didn't hire a guide. Despite this 'precaution' we still got a bit lost while we were almost near the summit. We missed a marker and followed another trail marker (an arrow carved in a tree trunk) which eventually led to a dead-end. Good thing we found our way back a few turn-arounds (and a trickle of fear-induced sweat) later. Just make sure to follow the markers and you'll find yourself to a bamboo 'archway' which is a sign that you are near the campsite near the summit.

When we were there, the campsite was packed with overnight hikers preparing for their brunch. We arrived at the place around 9 in the morning which made it a decent three-hour hike (which includes the turn-arounds from getting lost from the trail). The view from the ridge is spectacular and you can see the Monolith standing mightily next to the summit of Mount Palay-Palay.

Dem jeje hikers.
(c) Lopez

LOOK AT THAT BEAUT! The Monolith is the one on the left and 
Mt. Palay-Palay's summit is the one on the right.
(c) Lopez

The campsite serves as a resting place for hikers before they conquer the summit and the Monolith. There are stores here that sell goto (rice congee) and bottled water and drinks...but for a hefty price. A 500mL Gatorade drink can cost you 60 pesos and a 350mL bottled water for 30 pesos. So better bring your drinks during your hike or pay the price. Quite literally.

The Parrot's Beak/Monolith as seen
from the summit
(c) Lopez

After resting a bit, we went to conquer the summit of Mount Palay-Palay. The slope in this part of the trail is steeper and it will get your heart pumping especially if you're doing it at around high noon (which was what we newbies did). Hard breathing and sweat trickling be damned but the view from the summit is breath-taking. Even if we reached the summit with a thick blanket of fog covering the view of Cavite and the South China Sea, this was an experience on its own. Imagine teeny drops of water welcoming you on top of the Monolith, seemingly congratulating you for accomplishing such a feat. Lovely on its own way.

Down the Summit. Up the Monolith
(c) Your truly using DJ's camera

They say you don't take a picture against the light. So we didn't.
Hello, High Noon Sun. Hello, unflattering derp faces.
(c) Lopez

To get to the Monolith, you have to go down the other side of the summit which is quite easy because gravity is on your side. Still, be cautious. Then a quick ascent along the side of the monolith is in order. I actually have to hug the rocks at some of the bends to keep my balance. Then comes the hard part: roped segments. It's not for the faint of heart and of weak upper body strength. Basically, you have to pull yourself up but if you're lucky (like myself!), you can have a friend with the said upper body strength to help in pulling yourself up in this portion. A little more rock-hugging and you're on top of the Parrot's Beak! Congratulations!

Make other people feel small with your accomplishment with forced perspective.
Hahaha! Kidding.
(c) Your truly using Clemenzar's phone

We haven't stayed long on top of the monolith nor in the summit because the threatening rumbles of a nearby rain cloud can be heard. So we headed back down, still without a guide but with fellow newbie hikers. This proved to be perfect ingredients for a steaming disaster that is getting lost. On our way down, we missed the marker leading back to DENR - the one made with eye-catching explosive yellow-green bottles of Mountain Dew arranged in an arrow shape. Yep that one. And for the next two hours, we continued on our way "back" (or so we thought) and only until we were REALLY sure that we didn't pass a place that we made our way back, desperately checked every fork (and getting more hopeless if it led to a dead end) and gleefully seeing signs that we're actually making our way back to the right trail. To add to the gloomy situation that we were in, the skies decided to make it more apt to rain on us. Thankfully, on our way back we met hikers on their way back from the summit and they have a guide so we tagged along them. Just imagine how grateful we were to trek the right way down the summit. Still can't imagine it? Look at the pictures below.

We were lost. And we were found.
AND DAMN ARE WE DEAD TIRED BUT HAPPY TO BE BACK ON TRACK!
(c) Agullana

After getting our bearings straight from just what happened, we went back to DENR to ride a tricycle back to the Ternate bus terminal for another 75 pesos. The way back to Manila is basically the reverse of what we did this morning (Clemenz and I went to a getaway with officemates in Tagaytay as a side trip so we weren't able to get back to Manila that same night but we made sure DJ was on her way home :D).

Despite everything we've been through on our way down, the trek to Pico de Loro is worth it. Even getting lost is an experience. It's not everyday you get to say that you almost got lost in a mountain. And also, looking at the Parrot's Beak and saying to yourself that you conquered that bitch is really really satisfying. So don't get discouraged by what happened to us but be challenged to conquer Pico de Loro. It's just a few hours from Manila and it may provide you the much-needed respite from the chaos that is the metro. 

P.S. Shots from atop the Monolith are awesome. 

Clemenz doing an awesome high kick.....at this high altitude.
Forgive me, I just have to say that.
(c) Lopez

P.P.S. Visit Pinoy Mountaineer's page on Pico de Loro. He's been our source for tips and even itineraries when it comes to conquering mountains. The hiker in you might just be awaken after reading a few of his posts.

Until the next trip!

- Paulo

Because you bring honor and excellence wherever you go. Even on top of the Parrot's Beak
(c) Lopez